hawaii. pipe masters 2007. occy’s retirement from the tour. pre paddle out, his board awaits just above the water’s edge. i thought this was a cool image, just the board and a slightly brooding sky. he was carried onto the beach after his surf by a lot of his buddies.

habana vieja

2016. cuba. before the borders were opened, one could still travel to cuba. i decided to get there way we’ve been getting there since 1961. it’s one of the most beautiful cities I’ve been to. really. the culture abounds, especially music and art. yes, the people are suppressed. making music and vibrant art is their way of dealing with it, and what a wonderful way to make a society happy!